snorovr Posted March 17, 2008 Report Posted March 17, 2008 Rice from Park Crue Justo... Justo... Justo... me. me. Justo... Justo... Skittles... Mikey... Mikey... Anyone got any tips on how to get colors to pop a little more in crappy light? Of course as soon as we got the camera out it got overcast and windy... Thanks murphy... Quote
toast21602 Posted March 17, 2008 Report Posted March 17, 2008 (edited) ah nice pictures Trev! I wish i would have been able to get out this weekend instead of being stuck at the damn hospital for 30 hours. You should bring it back out for closing weekend, as i'm sure it would be a good time... as long as the park is decent and it doesnt rain. Edited March 17, 2008 by toast21602 Quote
FK. Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 your trevor!, I saw you throw that nice 5 on the jump before the wall ride. I was a skier in all brown with black ntb's Oh, I also saw you wreck your ass cheek on the double kink rail!!! But what do I know, I'm still too scared to hit it after eyeing up all season Quote
snorovr Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 Oh, I also saw you wreck your ass cheek on the double kink rail!!! Shit hurts cuz! Say hey next time and feel free to join the crew! You gotta be willing to push yourself though... Quote
Glenn Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 I think my cannon has a setting for "cloudy" in the color settings. Perhaps changing the exposure too. I'm still learning about my camera, and most of the shots I'm happy with happens in good light. Quote
Glenn Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Actually the cloudy setting is under my white balance settings. I really didn't know what white balance was, here is a quick tutorial about white balance and digital cameras and image editors. I think adjusting the white balance could help alot for colors, and maybe adjusting exposure as needed for brighter pics. Someone else probably has a better idea, but I'm learning this stuff right now and thought I would pass along what I'm picking up. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/white-balance.htm Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 nice pics trev! lots of potential... ..... Quote
Glenn Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 So rather than just PS it and showing how rad you are, want to help the rest of us out that want better pics? Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 So rather than just PS it and showing how rad you are, want to help the rest of us out that want better pics? Just showing that you don't NEED to take great pics, most can be recovered in PS...I mean, this pic was tough to work with, but adjusting shadows and highlighting, you can get some def out of the overexposed areas.... here ya go trev... Quote
Glenn Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Wouldn't overexposed areas be really bright? Looks like most of that pic is under exposed. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Wouldn't overexposed areas be really bright? Looks like most of that pic is under exposed. ya my bad...typing while talking to friends... trevs got a real solid cam, with some solid skills...few minute for each picture on photoshop is the finishing touch on your hard work to take quality pics... Quote
Glenn Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 I like that you matte all your PS jobs too. I'm going to have to start doing that. Oh, and nice stoke T*Maki thanks for posting. Some good photo/editing discussion here too. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 I like that you matte all your PS jobs too. I'm going to have to start doing that. Oh, and nice stoke T*Maki thanks for posting. Some good photo/editing discussion here too. inner shadow, 100% opacity, 0 distance, 100 choke, and whatever size you'd like. the matte just frames everything, and adds a nice contrast. depending on the colors, i sometimes do a black thick rim, with a thin inner white frame, if its a darker picture, but with snow, the black is a good contrast. Quote
nick malozzi Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 historically you should only matte with white, because black matte implies death. however, i always preferred black. in addition i always matte for real, and when i do i prefer to bleed mount or sandwich in glass. i consider digital pics a negative; until it is on paper it is just data and there is no need to matte. btw: your opinion of photoshop is a real shame. why not expose the photo correctly in the first place, and only use photoshop if there was a problem. adjust you white balance for the conditions, and change you exposure (slr). you'll have better pics in the long run, because you won't loose pixel info when adjusting them in PS. don't forget every time you save a jpeg quality drops. oh and fixing underexposed digital pics is actually easier then over exposed, so don't pat yourself too hard. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 I know. Though when you're shooting quick pics without a tripod on the snow, photoshop is a mircle, esp if your cam can't lock white balance onto an object, such as your hand. Photoshop isnt a replacement for skill, but its certainlly a supplement. Quote
snorovr Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 why not expose the photo correctly in the first place, and only use photoshop if there was a problem. adjust you white balance for the conditions, and change you exposure (slr). you'll have better pics in the long run, because you won't loose pixel info when adjusting them in PS. don't forget every time you save a jpeg quality drops. oh and fixing underexposed digital pics is actually easier then over exposed, so don't pat yourself too hard. I'm a huge fan of learning to use my camera properly, and I'm learning stuff everyday I shoot with it. China was a ton of fun for that, and I tried a lot of settings out on my camera that I had never played with before. Right now my setup is a Nikon D70 (2.0 firmware) with the Nikkor 18-200 VR lens. One of the things I always forget to set before I go out is my WB and ISO, and this is one of the big things has kept me from shooting great photos right off the bat. Amateur mistake... Always set your camera for the conditions and take it from there. I've been told that this is arguably one of the most common mistakes now that a lot of people skip film and go straight to digital. I haven't played with film since very early grade school, so would consider myself learning on digital only. I'm not a real big fan of post processing, because I have a professor now who I have no respect for because she has a terrible eye for good photography and considers Photoshop a more important aspect of photography than the shot itself. Quote
Ski Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Flat light is flat light. Ideally, you'd pop a strobe, but that adds expensive gear. If it's for work (I have to shoot some college/high school skiing and don't wanna lug $400 flashes), I'll sacrifice my motor and just use an old Vivitar 283 flash with a Quantum battery. It dumps a huge amount of light on a subject I'm shooting with a 200mm lens. If you don't wanna bother with a strobe: you really just want to bring up the contrast a little, so you might try doubling the ASA rating----ie 400 to 800. Exposure is twice as critical, though, so you need to be sure you aren't backlighting/front lighting too much. I sorta cringe at ever purposely bumping up the ASA because of the shit it does to film grain, but digital images hold up better. On flat days, it can make a huge difference which side of the jump/subject you're on. Get the brighter clouds behind you, just like you'd get the sun over your shoulder. But if you can't do anything, minus the exposure and pop the contrast in PS, of course. Just my 2 cents... Quote
Ski Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Oh, and just to add, flat, cloudy days on snow are usually cyan. I almost automatically bump the magenta, or at least start with yellow---and then bring up the red---in either PS or when I'm using an enlarger. Quote
snorovr Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 Flat light is flat light. Ideally, you'd pop a strobe, but that adds expensive gear. If it's for work (I have to shoot some college/high school skiing and don't wanna lug $400 flashes), I'll sacrifice my motor and just use an old Vivitar 283 flash with a Quantum battery. It dumps a huge amount of light on a subject I'm shooting with a 200mm lens. Just my 2 cents... Do you go on or off camera with the flash? I've heard that mounting the flash off camera using a 4-6 foot hotshoe cable can make a big difference because it is much easier to aim the flash... and thanks for the color tips, I'll try them tomorrow. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 One of the things I always forget to set before I go out is my WB and ISO, and this is one of the big things has kept me from shooting great photos right off the bat. I still do it too The good news is though, if you forget, you can always recover those pics. I forget which camera you have, but a trick I learned that's really easy if your cam can WB lock onto midtoned object. Lock the WB on your hand when out in the snow, and shoot away. Snow is just so hard to get shots because the snow throws the WB off. anyway, lookin good Quote
Justin Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Natty light pictures are meant to have underexposed and overexposed areas. Just like you see light and dark things with your eyes, your camera would be no different. Trev, I think you should invest in a few flashes. I have three Vivitar 285HV's that are triggered with eBay slaves (or Pocketwizards, much more $$$), and they're great. Natural light, in my opinion, sucks balls unless you're shooting MF. Having two or three flashes cranked up to full power will let you shoot f11 at your lowest ISO...less natural light is always better. Quote
snorovr Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 Trev, I think you should invest in a few flashes. I have three Vivitar 285HV's that are triggered with eBay slaves (or Pocketwizards, much more $$$), and they're great. Natural light, in my opinion, sucks balls unless you're shooting MF. Having two or three flashes cranked up to full power will let you shoot f11 at your lowest ISO...less natural light is always better. As soon as it got cloudy I should have put my flash next to the rail and framed it out of the shot. I was shooting with the flash on the camera, but was too far away for it to do much with how much light there was. One nice thing about my camera is that it has a Commander mode and I can shoot wirelessly with my flash without any PW's or optical slaves. Problem is that as of yet I haven't played with that feature at all. I have another flash at home and I'd like to get an optical slave for it to do fill duty, that way I'll have the on body flash which functions as the Commander, and two remote units. Quote
Justin Posted March 19, 2008 Report Posted March 19, 2008 As soon as it got cloudy I should have put my flash next to the rail and framed it out of the shot. I was shooting with the flash on the camera, but was too far away for it to do much with how much light there was. One nice thing about my camera is that it has a Commander mode and I can shoot wirelessly with my flash without any PW's or optical slaves. Problem is that as of yet I haven't played with that feature at all. I have another flash at home and I'd like to get an optical slave for it to do fill duty, that way I'll have the on body flash which functions as the Commander, and two remote units. The Commander feature doesn't work very well. Optical slaves (which is what the commander feature is) will only work in a studio or if it's really dark out, they aren't for daylight use and definitely aren't good for anything fast moving. The sync is awful with them and they will give you a hard time 98% of the time. I'd highly recommend eBay slaves if not PW's. With a simple mod they work really well for the price (I spent like $40 for the trigger and three receivers). Sometimes they give me trouble when my flashes are far away but it's expected for something so cheap. Also invest in umbrella stands and hook up the receivers with sync cords, I don't trust the hotshoe mount on them. I rarely get misfires and I've had them sync up to 1/750. Just put RF-04 or PT-04 into an eBay search and they'll pop up. If you need extra receivers just ask the seller. Here is the mod you're gonna want to do, after this they are much better: http://forums.skateperception.com/index.php?showtopic=101002 Quote
snorovr Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Posted March 19, 2008 Ya I really don't wanna get that into it to make that type of investment and have that much gear. I wanna be able to fit everything into a smaller bag that will hold two lenses, a camera body, and a flash or two. I don't really plan on ever getting beyond the enthusiast level. I have yet to test the Commander mode on snow, but I tried it outside on a really bright day here at home and had no problems from a wide range of distances. The flash is pretty damn sensitive. We'll see if it works or not this weekend... Quote
toast21602 Posted March 19, 2008 Report Posted March 19, 2008 last time i looked, saturday is lookin' nice Trev! should be a great day to snap some shots! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.