2013/2014 New Equipment Thread

[guitar73]

I use the term plaster loosely...it's a hard material. probably a hard plastic compound or something. whatever it is, it was formed by the weighted casting of my feet.

[AtomicSkier]

why did you ever have padding above your instep? That's a great way to cramp your foot and kill blood flow to your toes.

 

And guitar, weighted is the way to go, in my opinion. Not sure about plaster since I've never had those though.

 

It's *similar* to the style Nestor's used to make. Similar construction, different materials. By padding, I mean the "padding" that is built into the liner.

[toast21602]

i'll need new boots next year when I have some money. I'll have to reference this thread when the time comes.

[sibhusky]

27 is a fallacy unless you're in a plug boot, and a few select other boots to fill an awkward size gap, but that usually happens at 24.0 and 28.0. The difference between a 27 and 27.5 is a thicker footbed, which is thrown out the window as soon as you start customizing your boot.

Totally aware of the shell issue, but you can't shrink the shell, so if you FIT in a 26.5, can't see why you'd go up.

[sibhusky]

So glad I have normal feet. Tried some Langes, too loose across the central section of my foot. Heads much snugger. Might have a slight arch issue, will see. Mostly crazy snug everywhere right now, won't really know until I ski.

[AtomicSkier]

Totally aware of the shell issue, but you can't shrink the shell, so if you FIT in a 26.5, can't see why you'd go up.

 

Because it'd require a ton of work to get it to work. By "fit in" I meant he soaked the boot in 200F water, laced up the liner, opened the boot wide enough for me to step right in, and then buckled it up. I couldn't even slide my foot into the 26.5 when it was cold. If I was only using the boots for racing, then maybe, but I want to be able to ride the lift without unbuckling every lift ride, or having my right foot start losing circulation 1/2 way down the Hobacks. The old boots never bothered me in the short runs at Blue, but skiing runs longer than 2 minutes, definitely.

 

FWIW, my left foot is a 27.5 and the right is somewhere between a 26.5 and 27.5. 27.5 by no means is a big boot for me.

[Shadows]

sounds like he should just start making his own boots. thats a shit ton of work.

(which i would love to have done, sounds amazing.)

Edited November 17, 2013 by Shadows

[Shadows]

just saw this while wasting time

 

Edited November 17, 2013 by Shadows

[Justo8484]

sounds like he should just start making his own boots. thats a shit ton of work.

(which i would love to have done, sounds amazing.)

for whatever it's worth, making your own boots costs about 50k per size just for the machining of the molds. That's not counting r&d to get the shape of the shell completely dialed before it's finalized.

[AtomicSkier]

[jordan]

Got some ON3P Jeffreys this year after my sidewall exploded last year on a pair of 4FRNTs. They are fun as hell. Most versatile ski I have ever owned. Its amazing what a 110 mm uf ski can do with some traditional camber+tip rocker.

 

I am convinced that ON3P makes by far most well built skis on the market today. I now have the Jeffreys and Caylors and I can ski over rocks all day with barely a scratch on my bases, while other skis will lose chunks of sidewall. Other ski companies may have fun shapes, but no one else even comes close to the quality that ON3P produces (ok...MAYBE Praxis comes close).

[Justo8484]

Got some ON3P Jeffreys this year after my sidewall exploded last year on a pair of 4FRNTs. They are fun as hell. Most versatile ski I have ever owned. Its amazing what a 110 mm uf ski can do with some traditional camber+tip rocker.

 

I am convinced that ON3P makes by far most well built skis on the market today. I now have the Jeffreys and Caylors and I can ski over rocks all day with barely a scratch on my bases, while other skis will lose chunks of sidewall. Other ski companies may have fun shapes, but no one else even comes close to the quality that ON3P produces (ok...MAYBE Praxis comes close).

Good to see somebody else rockin a pair. I've used mine in slush, choppy refrozen crap, fresh snow, to carve groomers, and hit jumps with and they're super versatile. For as light and lively as the ski is, they're quite stable. What bindings did you put on yours?

[Johnny Law]

Got some ON3P Jeffreys this year after my sidewall exploded last year on a pair of 4FRNTs. They are fun as hell. Most versatile ski I have ever owned. Its amazing what a 110 mm uf ski can do with some traditional camber+tip rocker.

 

I am convinced that ON3P makes by far most well built skis on the market today. I now have the Jeffreys and Caylors and I can ski over rocks all day with barely a scratch on my bases, while other skis will lose chunks of sidewall. Other ski companies may have fun shapes, but no one else even comes close to the quality that ON3P produces (ok...MAYBE Praxis comes close).

 

Stockli - how do you post an umlaut......the price though isn't even close

 

Jeffery is mid 20's radius ?

 

Pretty versatile ski if I remember right.......I wanna snag a 176 Tychoon in touring layup, would make an excellent EC touring ski

Edited December 2, 2013 by Johnny Law

[AtomicSkier]

 

Jeffery

 

it's Jeffrey, get it right.

[jordan]

Good to see somebody else rockin a pair. I've used mine in slush, choppy refrozen crap, fresh snow, to carve groomers, and hit jumps with and they're super versatile. For as light and lively as the ski is, they're quite stable. What bindings did you put on yours?

I put PX-18s on them....so much for being light . I have the PX-18s on all of my resort skis because they are cheap, don't break, and I don't really care about weight when skiing in bounds.

[Justo8484]

I put PX-18s on them....so much for being light . I have the PX-18s on all of my resort skis because they are cheap, don't break, and I don't really care about weight when skiing in bounds.

Very solid choice. I can't justify the 18 DIN since I run my bindings at 10-11. I've got pivot 14s on all my stuff, I wish they made a pivot 15 so I could get the better toe with a pivot heel and a reasonable DIN like they used to.

[Johnny Law]

Very solid choice. I can't justify the 18 DIN since I run my bindings at 10-11. I've got pivot 14s on all my stuff, I wish they made a pivot 15 so I could get the better toe with a pivot heel and a reasonable DIN like they used to.

 

I think 100,000 people agree with you, so it's strange they don't offer one. I doubt it's a mold issue........

[AtomicSkier]

 

I think 100,000 people agree with you, so it's strange they don't offer one. I doubt it's a mold issue........

 

at least they still sorta offer a PX15...how long will that last though.

[jordan]

Very solid choice. I can't justify the 18 DIN since I run my bindings at 10-11. I've got pivot 14s on all my stuff, I wish they made a pivot 15 so I could get the better toe with a pivot heel and a reasonable DIN like they used to.

I don't need the 18 din either. I run my Din at 12. I just do it for the metal toe and heel, since I typically destroy my equipment. It is kind of comical that every time I get a pair of skis mounted, I have to sign a release since the din only goes down to 10 and my chart setting is 9.5.

[Justo8484]

I don't need the 18 din either. I run my Din at 12. I just do it for the metal toe and heel, since I typically destroy my equipment. It is kind of comical that every time I get a pair of skis mounted, I have to sign a release since the din only goes down to 10 and my chart setting is 9.5.

if you're set on that binding going forward, hunt down a jig and just mount your own skis. You're a mechanically minded individual, it's not that hard to do at all if you can follow a manual. You'll save yourself lots of money over the years if you're getting new skis every year or two.

[AtomicSkier]

if you're set on that binding going forward, hunt down a jig and just mount your own skis. You're a mechanically minded individual, it's not that hard to do at all if you can follow a manual. You'll save yourself lots of money over the years if you're getting new skis every year or two.

 

This. 8484 mounted my new Mantras...simple to do...even drinking Rude Elf

[Johnny Law]

if you're set on that binding going forward, hunt down a jig and just mount your own skis. You're a mechanically minded individual, it's not that hard to do at all if you can follow a manual. You'll save yourself lots of money over the years if you're getting new skis every year or two.

 

Mounting your own shit and waxing should be a requisite once you've skied a certain number of days in your life. Maybe edge work too but that can really fuck up your day if you screw it up.

 

There was a dude on TGR selling a custom jig with various removable plates, Look/Rossi, Solly, Dynafit and Marker. I picked one up and they work fantastic, if you can't find a shop jig Jordan check the tech talk he may still have some.

[Justo8484]

Not all skiers are mechanical....I've never waxed or sharpened skis myself. Let the experts do it. I'd prob destroy my carpet with wax.

Waxing entails little more than essentially using a crayon and coloring within the lines and ironing a shirt. But you make a good point, that's pretty tough sometimes

[sibhusky]

I won't do binding work but I do most everything else. There are times when I take them in for a grind, but not often. Just did a slight structure refresh with OMG some sandpaper. We'll see how successful that was..

[AtomicSkier]

Montana cans are the best quality and the stock tips are nice. Some people don't think they are "real" and you can't rack them, mainly rich kids ordering them online with their parents credit card.

 

What are you talking about?