train36 Posted October 26, 2005 Report Posted October 26, 2005 I want to get my stuff tuned before the season this year. I usaually do it myself but don't have time. Anyone know of any good shops? I want to get my edges sharpened on my old board and some bevel added to the base edge of my new park board. Also anyone know how often you should get a base grind, I have a an older board I still use a lot and am wondering if I should get this done. As for shops I was thinking of Bear Creek since I will be up there to get my pass this weekend or Buckmans since its not that far from me. Any info is much appreciated. Quote
skifreak Posted October 26, 2005 Report Posted October 26, 2005 (edited) Buckmans, Nestors, Pelican whatever is the closest to you. Edited October 26, 2005 by skifreak Quote
skidude Posted October 26, 2005 Report Posted October 26, 2005 I wouldn't go to buckmans (just doesn't seem like there staff really ski/ride that much)...Rob likes BC's shop, I like CB's, but that is probably out of the way for you. Only get a base gride once a season, and make srue you wax after it Quote
librider Posted October 26, 2005 Report Posted October 26, 2005 you sharpen your edges? and you ride park? Weird.. as soon as i get a board i detune the edges and never sharpen them... ever Quote
train36 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Posted October 27, 2005 I llike to keep my edges sharp if I feel like doing some other runs on the mountain. I add 2 degrees of bevel on my base edge so my edges don't hang up on rails, some people like to detune everything but I don't. Any other options, looks like its going to be Bear Creek. Any opinions on the base grind? Quote
Philpug Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 Nestors, Langhorne or D&Q would be the only ones I trust in the Philly area. Quote
Justo8484 Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 getting the board redone before the season starts is a good idea. when you get the base redone, you shouldnt be charged extra to have it waxed too, that's part of the whole process. at nestors we charge $45, which seems like a lot, but you get any scratches in the base filled, the base ground, edges sharpened and beveled to whatever you specify, and then the base gets hot waxed. your board will end up looking brand new, on the bottom at least. for my skis, on the odd chance i do sharpen them, i usually go 3 degrees on the base and 1 on the sides, that way i dont hang up on rails but still have some edge to ski with. that usually works well for me. Quote
VTmark Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 i usally shapren my edges but not inbetween my bindings so i think i get the best of both worlds. Quote
skidude Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 I know a lot of people (not me) detune there skis at the tips and tails. I could never really figure out why, but they said it makes them too 'grabby' Mum has that problem some times I think. Anyway, do boarders detune there tip/tail if there freeriding. (sounds like park riders detune there whole board) Quote
train36 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Posted October 27, 2005 Thanks for the replies. 45$ is not bad at all for everything that you said, my board from last year is already waxed because I wax it at the end of the season and don't scrape it till I plan on riding again . My new board I just want some bevel added, my old board will need the works besides the waxing so I might check out Nestors, which one is closest to the NE Philly area? I do detune my boards at the tip and tail a little bit so it ain't as grabby like you said. Quote
Justo8484 Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 qtown is closest. 476 north, get off at the qtown exit, take 663 east to 309 north, its like 2 lights north on 309 off the right side. Quote
DHarrisburg Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 Usually I just take a power-sander with a 30 grit sandpaper to my edges for a bit. I guess only detuning your inner edges is fine if you don't do nose/tail slides Quote
VTmark Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 yeah DH im not that good. i'm still trying to get down BASIC boardslides. im not a big FS person but i want to lean it. Quote
Papasteeze Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 I wouldn't go to buckmans (just doesn't seem like there staff really ski/ride that much)...Rob likes BC's shop, I like CB's, but that is probably out of the way for you. Only get a base gride once a season, and make srue you wax after it I like CB shop for sure, I trust them. Bears' GM convinced me to give them a try at the end of the season last year - a fellow by the name of Andy did a great job with Ridges skis. Talking to the guy who actually does the tuning should give you a feel of what you are going to get.. If you drop skis off and run, I would imagine that you could end with someones experimental on the job training project... Usually I just take a power-sander with a 30 grit sandpaper to my edges for a bit. I guess only detuning your inner edges is fine if you don't do nose/tail slides 30 Grit?? Dude - concrete chunks work much better!!! Quote
tretiak Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 Usually I just take a power-sander with a 30 grit sandpaper to my edges for a bit. I guess only detuning your inner edges is fine if you don't do nose/tail slides damn 30! i use 36 grit in school and it eats paint like its candy. wonder what it does to ur base. Quote
DHarrisburg Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 30 Grit?? Dude - concrete chunks work much better!!! Did you see me using the parking blocks in Harrisburg? Concrete works wonders in a pinch If you have a burr or forgot to detune, the metal racks used to hold skis outside of lodges can be used. Same goes for the metal bars on a chairlift. Personally I'm a fan of using the lighter, airy (pumice?) rocks you'll find up at Hood. Works like a charm. damn 30! i use 36 grit in school and it eats paint like its candy. wonder what it does to ur base. You use it on your edges, not your base. I usually take a 60 grit and smooth the whole job out after using the 30. If you think my method is a little out there, I'll have to introduce you to friends of mine who use angle grinders to take their edges off. Two swipes with a grinder and you won't have to worry about hanging up on anything. Quote
Philpug Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 Some of the new shorter aggressive sidecut skis like my Metrons do NOT get detuned. Make sure that do the correct side and base bevels. Quote
Ski Posted November 1, 2005 Report Posted November 1, 2005 I know a lot of people (not me) detune there skis at the tips and tails. I could never really figure out why, but they said it makes them too 'grabby' Mum has that problem some times I think. It used to be the way most tunes were done back when skis were straight. When you tipped a straight ski on edge, the tip and tail came off the snow, so they detuned at those spots for easier transitions. That's also why skis used to have to be longer---because during the turn, the tips and tails left the snow. Some of the new shorter aggressive sidecut skis like my Metrons do NOT get detuned. Make sure that do the correct side and base bevels. Do Metrons come out of the factory with 1 degree base and 3 degree side? Quote
Philpug Posted November 4, 2005 Report Posted November 4, 2005 Do Metrons come out of the factory with 1 degree base and 3 degree side? Yep. 1/3. Quote
adrian Posted November 19, 2005 Report Posted November 19, 2005 if you want something done right, you need to do it yourself! its much cheaper too. i do need some stone structuring now and again. Quote
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