Ski Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 I was just going to PM this to 'Mom and 'Dude because we'd discussed it, but some other people might want be interested. I had a long talk with my shop guy today and he took issue with something I'd read a few years ago. In the 2000-'01 Masters pre-season newsletter, there was a long article about tuning from a longtime Volkl tech. In it, he stated that before re-beveling the base edge, you HAD to stone grind the base flat. But unless you are base-high, or have some other issues, it is NOT necessary to do any stone grinding. This makes sense and saves a lot of base and edge material. So, when you are doing your pre-season tune, just check the bases with a true bar, keeping in mind that most skis are designed not to be totally flat. Atomic, for instance, has two channels mostly toward the tip and tail. If they look good, then just sharpen the base (I use 1 degree), then the edges (3 for mine). Don't sharpen the bases again all year. Just keep working on your side edges. Stone grinding your bases will make your skis slow down. Make sure you really need the grind. Use the same base and edge bevel for all of your skis, no matter the discipline. I guess that's it... Quote
AtomicSkier Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 I was just going to PM this to 'Mom and 'Dude because we'd discussed it, but some other people might want be interested. I had a long talk with my shop guy today and he took issue with something I'd read a few years ago. In the 2000-'01 Masters pre-season newsletter, there was a long article about tuning from a longtime Volkl tech. In it, he stated that before re-beveling the base edge, you HAD to stone grind the base flat. But unless you are base-high, or have some other issues, it is NOT necessary to do any stone grinding. This makes sense and saves a lot of base and edge material. So, when you are doing your pre-season tune, just check the bases with a true bar, keeping in mind that most skis are designed not to be totally flat. Atomic, for instance, has two channels mostly toward the tip and tail. If they look good, then just sharpen the base (I use 1 degree), then the edges (3 for mine). Don't sharpen the bases again all year. Just keep working on your side edges. Stone grinding your bases will make your skis slow down. Make sure you really need the grind. Use the same base and edge bevel for all of your skis, no matter the discipline. I guess that's it... my bases were flat, but i was getting some base repair work done, so i felt it was just good to get it all smoothed out.....if anyone is going to get their skis tuned for the season, i'd recommend a 1 degree base, and 1 degree side edge bevel. If you are a bit more aggresive, go with a 1 degree base, 2 degree side bevel, but it require more effort and maintence to keep it sharp. My skis last year, in the beginning of the season at least, had a 1 degree base, 3 degree side, which holds pretty well on ice I went with the 1:2 this year, gunna see how that feels Quote
skimom Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 I'm not a fan of stone grinding. First, it's done by goons using automated systems which is not a favorable combination. Second, it wears the whole system down faster. Lastly, my skis are always worse after - grabby and slow. It takes me hours or days to work them in again. Stone grinding -> way over rated. Quote
skimom Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 3 degree sides are high maintainance. I'm continuing with 2. If there is heavy ice I may try it. Quote
Ski Posted October 29, 2004 Author Report Posted October 29, 2004 I was mostly just applying it to edge work at the beinning of the season. Volkl had said to detune at the beginning of the season by stone grinding. That would set the base to zero. While it sounds good to start the season from scratch, it's wrong. Quote
skidude Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 my bases were flat, but i was getting some base repair work done, so i felt it was just good to get it all smoothed out.....i <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Jeff atomics come out of the factory with a little "concaveness" in the bases. The theory behind this is that when you have pressure on the ski, it is then flat...Or something like that. All other skis come with what should be a flat base. I'm not a fan of stone grinding. First, it's done by goons using automated systems which is not a favorable combination. Second, it wears the whole system down faster. Lastly, my skis are always worse after - grabby and slow. It takes me hours or days to work them in again. Stone grinding -> way over rated. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mum you gotta wax wax wax after a stone grind to get your skis moving again. Your really not supposed to take them out right after they are ground Quote
skimom Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 Jeff atomics come out of the factory with a little "concaveness" in the bases. The theory behind this is that when you have pressure on the ski, it is then flat...Or something like that. All other skis come with what should be a flat base. Mum you gotta wax wax wax after a stone grind to get your skis moving again. Your really not supposed to take them out right after they are ground <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Fortunately, I have a great live-in waxing machine. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 Fortunately, I have a great live-in waxing machine. haha, yea it must be nice Quote
skifreak Posted October 30, 2004 Report Posted October 30, 2004 Does anyone know besides tognar where else online you can find a large selection of tuning products? Quote
Ski Posted October 30, 2004 Author Report Posted October 30, 2004 http://www.reliableracing.com http://www.the-raceplace.com http://www.race-werks.com/index.php http://www.svst.com/ http://www.racewax.com/ Quote
skifreak Posted October 30, 2004 Report Posted October 30, 2004 Thanks ski, yeah I knew about reliable racing and race werks but I never heard of the others. Quote
AtomicSkier Posted October 30, 2004 Report Posted October 30, 2004 leaving in a little bit to blast up to the loft...gunna pick up my skis, hopefully they look great! Quote
AtomicSkier Posted October 30, 2004 Report Posted October 30, 2004 they look great!! you can't even tell where it was repaired...there are still some surface stratches, but like ski999 said, a flat base is slower...so its like a built in structure (which i already have)...but they look great, and they didnt charge me anything for the repair, just the full tune ($19.95)...great deal Quote
tretiak Posted October 31, 2004 Report Posted October 31, 2004 where can i go to get my old board waxed adn that for really cheap and is the northampton area Quote
Ski Posted October 31, 2004 Author Report Posted October 31, 2004 where can i go to get my old board waxed adn that for really cheap and is the northampton area <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Isn't Nestor's in Whitehall the only place close? http://www.nestors.com/main/warming_hut.asp Avoid any Pelican...they eat babies. Quote
tretiak Posted October 31, 2004 Report Posted October 31, 2004 what about army navy or amatuer athelte? would they do it ? Quote
AtomicSkier Posted October 31, 2004 Report Posted October 31, 2004 what about army navy or amatuer athelte? would they do it ? probably not, and since nestors of whitehall is closed, the closest place in Blue Mt probably Quote
Ski Posted October 31, 2004 Author Report Posted October 31, 2004 Yeah, Blue and here's the list of all PA ski shops: http://www.skisite.com/shopsList.cfm?state=PA The scumbag Pelican shops in Quakertown are showing up as the next closest to you...but if you call Blue ahead and ask when someone will be there to do it while you wait, it might make it less of a hassle. Quote
tretiak Posted October 31, 2004 Report Posted October 31, 2004 ok thanks ill prlly get my board done this weekend since i have to go up there to get my pass anyway so it will b easier Quote
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